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The Gossiping Gourmet: Sushi Roku is worth breaking the rules

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I have a rule when doing a review that I try to remain anonymous. Occasionally, a sharp-eyed wait person will notice that I have been writing a lot while eating, but other than that I try to be just another patron so I can get the same food and treatment as any other guest.

I have only broken this rule on two occasions and both have been because a PR person contacted me directly and asked me to dinner. I have turned down quite a few offers, but this latest case involved a new sushi place, and I wanted some background and guidance on the extensive menu.

Sushi Roku in Newport Beach is a part of a restaurant group that operates several high-end concepts. The one in Fashion Island is quite beautiful but still casual.

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The main dining area has a very high ceiling, huge windows looking out to the patio, a lot of pretty wood elements, a large painting on one wall of a beautiful tree with red flowers, real bonsai trees, sake barrels and lanterns, bar seating, booths, tables and seats at the sushi bar. It seems to appeal to the young crowd, and the night we were there it was very buzzy.

It looks to me like it will be an instant success, mainly because the food is excellent.

My dining partner and I followed the advice of our PR companion, who had eaten there frequently in the short time it has been open. Everything we ate was top-notch — in particular, the sushi is simply pristine and quivering with freshness. Executive chef Hiroshi Shima is highly innovative and likes to incorporate non-traditional ingredients, as does his head chef Shin Toyoda.

Our first dish was fluke sashimi with yuzu kumquat vinaigrette. The fish was firm and mild tasting, and the sweet, salty and tart yuzu vinaigrette complemented it beautifully.

Miso glazed popcorn shrimp tempura had a crunchy batter. Sweet little shrimp were enhanced by a miso glaze, thin-sliced mushrooms and asparagus spears.

In order to taste as many things as possible, we ordered the Roku Crudo, which features six different tastings of Sushi Roku’s signature sushi and sashimi. This was a feast of flavors. We began with sweet and spicy tuna served with seaweed and wasabi. Then we had some lovely salmon with garlic and ponzu sauce. This was followed by yellowtail with jalapeno and ponzu sauce.

Octopus was thinly sliced and served simply, with vinegar. Albacore was topped with crispy rice and came with a delicious garlic aioli and rice crackers. Last but not least was a baked crab, hand-roll wrapped in soy paper and accented with black sesame seeds, wasabi and ginger. It would be impossible to say which of these offerings we liked best.

We tried one of the restaurant’s signature cut rolls next. The makato is stuffed with yellow tail, shrimp tempura and seared tuna and served with fried, buttered green beans and a wonderful spicy cream sauce. It was amazing.

From the robata grill, we had filet of beef sliced thin and wrapped around foie gras and asparagus. Please!

We were encouraged to try a couple of hot appetizers, and even though we were very full, we did our best. A perfect piece of succulent Chilean sea bass had a truffle miso glaze. Finally, unbelievably tender shredded short ribs were glazed in a sweetish sauce and served with mashed potatoes and veggies for garnish.

We finished with a light and tender chocolate volcano cake topped with ice cream and berries.

Our entire meal was excellent. I really can’t find a thing to criticize.

TERRY MARKOWITZ was in the gourmet food and catering business for 20 years. She can be reached for comments or questions at m_markowitz@cox.net.

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SUSHI ROKU

LOCATION: Fashion Island, 327 Newport Center Drive

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays

PRICES:

Appetizers: $6 to $59

Sashimi $5 to $36

Rolls: $7 to $20

Entrees: $25 to $41

Desserts: $10 to $14

WINE:

Bottles: $35 to $350

By the glass: $10 to $30

Corkage: $25

INFORMATION: (949) 706-3622

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