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The Gossiping Gourmet: Mona Lisa earns a smile

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Openings of fine-dining establishments are few and far between in this economy. The majority of new eateries are large chain restaurants, and so I am always delighted to find a small neighborhood spot that has first-rate food and good service.

I have driven past Mona Lisa Cucina, located in a strip mall in Huntington Beach, many times but never thought to try it. I have to do a lot of research these days to find a place to eat, and Mona Lisa got very good online reviews. I always take Internet reviews with a grain of salt, but this information proved very helpful.

The restaurant is small and doesn’t take reservations, but my dining companion and I only had to wait for five minutes or so until we were seated. This is the kind of neighborhood restaurant that anybody would love to have in his or her area: good food, good service and good prices.

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Our meal began as we munched on warm crusty bread with balsamic and olive oil for dipping. Chef Francois Lieutaud adds an inventive touch to classic Italian dishes. For example, his version of squid salad, called Calamari Al Aceto Balsamico, offered tender rings and tentacles of squid with a slight char from cooking, which provided a subtle undertaste.

They lounged on a bed of excellent, well-seasoned mixed salad greens that had been cooked with a sweet balsamic dressing. Surprisingly, the squid was really delicious with the touch of the sweet balsamic. Altogether, it was a unique and very tasty version of a squid salad.

Our other starter was Vongole e Cozza al Vino Blanco. A light flavorful broth, accented with white wine and garlic, provided a delicious base for excellent clams and mussels. The clams were small, juicy, tender and very fresh, as were the meaty black mussels. They were served with big slices of toasted garlic bread that we used to soak up all the lovely juices.

This really was as good as it gets. If this dish was served in a fancy restaurant, it would be double the price.

What kept amazing me is that Lieutaud, who is obviously French, has such a deft hand with Italian cuisine. Rigatoni “Mona Lisa” was a generous portion of pasta, ground beef, slices of sausage, mushrooms and olives smothered in excellent Bolognese sauce, blanketed with melted cheese and baked.

My dining companion ordered the osso buco, and it was perfect. The large, braised, bone-in lamb shank was moist, tender and well seasoned. The lamb was accompanied by delicious al dente rigatoni in a garlicky ragu sauce.

Completing our meal was an apple strudel that was just OK and really the only thing we ate that was not particularly good. Much better was the lemon custard topped with whipped cream and thin strips of chocolate shavings.

Also on the menu is a good selection of pizzas, including the Michelangelo — with brushed garlic, Roma tomatoes, artichoke hearts, red onion, feta cheese and basil. The Romana comes with tomato, bacon, egg, sliced sausage and mozzarella, all topped with bruschetta tomatoes.

Seafood lovers might try the Pesce Siciliana — white fish, sliced almonds, parsley and orange lemon butter, served with buccatini. If it’s chicken you fancy, there are three chicken breast preparations to choose from: creamy gorganzola with walnuts, Marsala with mushrooms and basil, and lemon caper sauce with mushrooms and a touch of cream. In addition to the many pastas, Mona Lisa Cucina also has two risottos.

Mona Lisa is a warm and friendly place with pictures of Italy on the walls. You may have to wait for a seat, but you won’t regret it. The food is very good.

TERRY MARKOWITZ was in the gourmet food and catering business for 20 years. She can be reached for comments or questions at m_markowitz@cox.net.

Mona Lisa Cucina

Where: 9017 E. Adams Ave., Huntington Beach

When: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Fridays, noon to 9:30 p.m. Saturdays, noon to 9 p.m. Sundays

Prices:

Appetizers and salads: $4 to $12

Entrees: $11 to $21

Desserts: $7 to $8

Wine:

Bottles: $25 to $47

By the glass: $7 to $8

Corkage: $13

Information: (714) 965-9900 or monalisacucina.com

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